After two years of taking place digitally, London Fashion Week returned during 18-22 February 2022 as a digital-physical hybrid. The shows ranged from fantastical and mythical to regal and seductive, as designers presented their womenswear and menswear collections for Autumn/Winter 2022.
We’ve highlighted seven standout presentations that’ll have the fashionistas and aspiring fashion designers among you raving. Check them out below:
1. Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha has said in the past that every show tells a story. This one was inspired by Children of Lir, a haunting, Irish fairytale that involves children being turned into swans by their jealous and magical stepmother. The designer gave a nod to the human-to-bird transformation through ‘wing-like’ dress sleeves and wet-look fabrics and shoes. The colour scheme was dark, occasionally offset with whites and creams. Bead and crystal stockings and facial jewellery gave the collection a mystical, luxurious touch.
2. Richard Quinn
One of the most joyful presentations was from Richard Quinn, whose collection featured cocoon-style long coats with bold floral and polka dot prints, paired with super-size hats, and at times, matching bags, gloves and shoes. Quinn’s experimentation with headwear was the real eye-opener – several pieces focused on integrated hooding, with dresses worn like nuns’ habits.
3. Nensi Dojaka
Known for her seductive approach to womenswear, Nensi Dojaki’s show at London Fashion Week didn’t disappoint. She sent forth a parade of barely-there, cleverly-engineered garments consisting of mesh panels, spaghetti straps and razor-sharp tailoring. The designer also presented outerwear, which included padded jackets cinched neatly at the waist.
4. Harris Reed
Harris Reed delivered a fluid and flamboyant show, called ‘Sixty Years A Queen’, complete with a performance from Sam Smith. The collection featured monarchic details such as coronation-worthy drapes and trails, rich jewel colours, lace tailoring and models donning Elizabethan-era painted faces. Reed played with proportion and volume while challenging the boundaries of identity and gender within each piece.
5. Molly Goddard
Girlish frocks with dropped waists, fitted yokes and layers of gorgeous taffeta frills caught the eye during Molly Goddard’s presentation. Models wore them with oversized knits and platform knee-high boots or flat trainers that added a casual edge. Frayed denim, high ponytails, glam makeup and remixed soundtracks from the 80s and 90s gave this runway show a funky, playful feel.
6. Yuhan Wang
Yuhan Wang presented a sophisticated show called ‘Venus in Furs’, with pretty silhouettes, embroidered slip dresses and faux fur-trimmed coats. At one point, Wang’s very own cat, Misty, was carried down the runway by a model wearing one such coat. Traditional Chinese feminity, feline prints and knits stood out, as did delicate billowing gowns and structured frocks.
7. Connor Ives
Each striking look in young designer Connor Ives’s debut show had a Y2K flavour and celebrated a range of American stereotypes while elevating the use of deadstock and vintage garments and materials. There were nods to cowgirls with printed denim and turquoise jewellery, 60’s hippies with fringed tops and kick-flare trousers, and even Jackie Kennedy, with a spectacular trapeze-shaped gown featuring a quilted patchwork star.
Want more fashion-related content? Check out our review of the menswear shows at Paris Fashion Week. You’ll also love our Founder File with London-based fashion designer, Roksanda, where she explains how she got her start in business and took the fashion world by storm. Read this extract in our Journal – and if you’re a CE member, you can watch the full interview here.
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